Book Review: Once upon a time in Beirut

I drive just over an hour to and from work, and to pass the time I devour audio books. I have just finished listening to Catherine Taylor’s memoir about her time in Beirut, a colourful snapshot of life in the “Paris of the middle east” sandwiched in between the political unrest and wars that have scarred the region. Catherine Taylor is a journalist, and her husband is an award winning reporter for Four Corners (ABC). Their sojourn to Beirut provided rich material for their work endeavours, as well as the satisfaction of travel and adventure.

Catherine’s story spans from early 2001 to 2005, with a brief return in 2006, after the war between Israel and Hesbollah. Catherine’s writing style is reflective of her vocation. The book is tightly written, factual and well researched. It is a comfortable entwining of history, newsworthy events and personal life experience. There is no sentimentality here, but Catherine’s empathy for the people of Lebanon shines through.

I do not know a great deal about the Middle East. For me the region has been synonymous with fighting, suicide bombing, religious fanaticism and the oppression of women. This book challenged my preconceptions deeply, and put a human face to people whose lives are all too often reduced to short choppy headlines in western newspapers.

Catherine describes the impact of September 11 2001 and the subsequent “war on terror” from a very different perspective to what is portrayed in the west. As part of her work she visited with women whose husbands were what we call suicide bombers, and known to the Hesbollah as martyrs. From our western perspective, it is very difficult to understand what might drive someone to commit suicide in this way. Catherine’s harrowing interviews with those left behind, and descriptions of the martyr’s stories, provides a context to something otherwise incomprehensible. Martyr operations do not necessarily occur out of random acts of hatred. The situation of oppression and violence against a backdrop of war provide an environment where such acts take on a heroic meaning. It seems as though the young men Catherine describes felt that nothing was too much to give to fight for the freedom and rights of their people. Interestingly, the Hesbollah looked after the martyr families very well, providing practical and financial assistance, to ensure that wives and children had their needs met. Whilst grief was woven through the widow’s stories, there was also a sense of pride and community.

There are many interesting characters woven through Catherine’s stories. One that stands out to me is the brother in law of Osama bin Laden, Jamal Khalifa. Khalifa was best friends with Osama bin Laden during college years. Catherine describes a couple of interviews with Khalifa. She documents feeling afraid at times, because of his reputation, and alleged connection with al Qaeda, and of course, Osama bin Laden. Khalifa was clear that while he had a deep bond with bin Laden, he did not support his actions. While Khalifa was arrested several times relating to terrorist allegations, nothing stuck. In Catherine’s book, Khalifa presented always as polite, engaging, and open. He didn’t shy away from Catherine’s questions, and they maintained email contact. Catherine wondered at his willingness to engage with her, with one possibility being the opportunity to clear his name. Khalifa was killed. Catherine’s stories about Khalifa and Hesbollah leave me wondering about the stories we are given about the middle east, and the subtle impact of “spin”.

Catherine forms many lasting friendships in Lebanon, both men and women. Interestingly she seldom felt unsafe, and never because of being a western woman. Catherine lived sensitively to the cultural expectations in terms of clothing where required. Her descriptions of Lebanese society are lively, and are at odds with typical western perceptions. She paints a picture of strong, welcoming people who love to have fun, dress glamorously. They find joy in times of bleakness. Their openness and hospitality is astounding - rather than shunning or mistrusting Catherine as a western woman, they warmly embraced her.

Catherine provides many charming vignettes about Lebanese life. Young men and women have strong cultural boundaries that make “dating” extremely difficult. Catherine describes car loads of young men driving around the thrumming city streets. When they pull up next to a car with girls, they hold up their phone numbers to the window. If a girl chooses to call, they meet at a restaurant in the “couples” section, where men and women are allowed to sit together in private booths. I loved the cheekiness of the young people, their capacity to respect their culture and subvert it at the same time.

Catherine had one child in Beirut, and left to return to Australia just as Lebanon’s political unrest began to escalate into yet another war.

This book opened my eyes to a different Middle East - vibrant, hopeful, passionate and beautiful.